You remove the failed controller canister so you can replace
it with a new one.
Before
you begin
You must use labels to
identify each cable that is connected to the controller canister.
You must have a #1 Phillips
screwdriver.
You have an ESD wristband, or you have
taken other antistatic precautions.
Put on an ESD wristband or
take other antistatic precautions.
Label each cable that is attached
to the controller canister.
Disconnect all the cables from
the controller canister.
Attention: To prevent degraded performance, do not twist, fold,
pinch, or step on the cables.
If the controller canister
has a HIC that uses SFP+ transceivers, remove the SFPs.
Because you must remove the HIC from the failed controller canister,
you must remove any SFPs from the HIC ports. However, you can leave
any SFPs installed in the baseboard host ports. When you reconnect
the cables, you can move those SFPs to the new controller canister.
Confirm that
the Cache Active LED on the back of the controller is off.
Squeeze the latch on the cam
handle until it releases, and then open the cam handle to the right
to release the controller canister from the shelf.
The following figures are examples of a 2U and 4 U controller shelf:
Figure 1. 2U controller shelf
Figure 2. 4U controller shelf
Controller canister
Cam handle
Using two hands
and the cam handle, slide the controller canister out of the shelf.
Attention: Always use two hands to support the weight of a controller
canister.
If you are removing the controller canister from
a 2U controller shelf, a flap swings into place to block the empty
bay, helping to maintain air flow and cooling.
Turn the controller canister over, so that the removable cover faces
up.
Place the controller
canister on a flat, static-free surface.